You Can Check Out Any Time You Want

As long as it isn't American-flagged, a boat can visit Cuba for years without being subject to importation duty. But a Tourist Card, the Cuban equivalent of a visa, is valid for only 30 days. It can be renewed once, a process that can take an hour or three days. After that, you have to leave.

Cuban Provisioning: Huevos Particulares


     The bean vendor sizes me up before sidling over.


     At the agropecuario, fresh-picked, perfect pineapples and papayas are displayed alongside guavas and grated coconut; garlic and onions nestle among other sofrito essentials, cachuca peppers and culantro; pumpkins and dried beans are piled with malanga and boniato.